Guide On How To Wear A Suit
A detailed guide with descriptions of how to wear a suit to give the best impression.
Types of Suits
Bespoke: A Bespoke suit is cut from a pattern created from scratch for the customer. It usually involves multiple fittings. This suit takes seventy five hours to make.
Machine: A Machine suit is made in batches and standard sizes. It takes thirty minutes to make.
Made to Measure: A Made to Measure Suit is cut from an adjusted preset pattern and uses multiple body measurements. It take eight to twelve hours to make.
Shoulders: The shoulders should end right at the end of your natural shoulder. To check, place your shoulder against the wall. If the jacket’s shoulder hits the wall first, it is too big.
Sleeve Length: Jacket sleeves should fall where the base of your thumb meets your wrist and ought to show about a half inch of shirt cuff at the wrist.
Pant Length: If you are going for a break at the shoes, ensure that the pants end hallway down the heel of your shoe. If there is more break than that, the fabric will pool around the ankle, giving the appearance that the pants are a size too big.
Jacket Length: Place your hands by your sides and curl up your fingers. The jacket should be resting in your hand.
One: Originally used by horseback riders to break on the saddle. It is now more commonly used on blazers and sports coats.
Two: The most common and functional option.
None: It creates a formed silhouette, but the suit will be obstructive when trying to sit down or reach in your pockets.
Sixteen to twenty ounces: Winter weights.
Ten to twelve ounces: All season weights.
Six to eight ounces: Summer weights.
Patterns: pinstripe, houndstooth, herringbone, twill, windowpane.
The Canvas is a layer of fabric in between the lining and fabric that gives the suit structure while preventing the wrinkles seen in other garments. Cloth, fusible, wool, and chest piece are different types of canvases.
Full canvas: Fully Canvassed jackets are of the best quality and have great craftsmanship. The Canvas, a blend of wool and animal hair, is stitched in between the lining and suiting fabric. It is used to provide support, ensuring that the jacket drapes well and gradually conforms to the wearer’s body.
Fused: Fused Suits are the easiest and cheapest to make. Fusible interlining is glued to wool shell using a heat based adhesive. This method of construction saves time ad money, however it lacks the support and structure of canvas.
Half Canvas: Half Canvassed jackets combine the best of both methods. In this method, canvas lines the chest and lapels and the remainder is fused. This way the jackets drapes naturally from the chest and lapel, where it’s needed most and the price can be maintained at a reasonable level.